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Routes in Sugar Bowl

Anything but Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'clock Shadow T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoiled by Shade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 36 total · 3/month
Shared By: climber pat on Dec 28, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Boulder up the gully from right of Fire Escape until you get below the overhang.

Pitch 1: Climb crack systems to the overhang.
Pitch 2: Climb the overhang and then continue up. We avoided the second overhang, because it looked a little loose, by going right out of the gully and then coming back into the crack system above. Stop at the nice ledge.
Pitch 3: Climb the dihedral. Place some good gear near the top of the dihedral before heading left to the anchor.

Location

Descent by rappelling for the anchor. The top rapel is doable with a single 70m rope if you are willing to down climb/walk the area from the 1st belay to the tree

Protection

Trad rack.

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