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From My Cold, Dead Hands

WI5 M4, Trad, Mixed, Ice, 380 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: 1-25-2009 Jim Lawyer, Jeremy Haas
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > F: The Central… > Barton High Cliff

Description

This is an enormous route that climbs the most obvious ice on the cliff.

Locate a huge left-facing corner on the right side of the Final Frontier buttress. The right wall of the corner is a huge ice-covered slab.

P1 WI3 M4: Climb the slab to its top. Traverse right, then down 6' to a stance. Move right around an arete and traverse right to a ledge. Small cams required for the belay. 150'

P2 WI5: Go straight up thin ice to a snow ledge, then straight up massive ice to a tree belay. 115'

P3 WI4: Move left and then go straight up to a rock cave. Continue up a column to rolling terrain. Belay at large pines. 115'

Descent: Walk left for 250' and locate a tree with a fixed rappel above Caringorm Corner. Rappel with a single rope.

At the top of the slab on P1, instead of traversing right, there is an offwidth crack that leads to ice. This "direct" would be an impressive achievement.

Location

On the right side of the Final Frontier buttress. The ice up high is huge, and is the most obvious ice on the cliff; can't miss it.

Protection

Standard ice rack with many shorties, rock gear to 1".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From My Cold, Dead Hands, Barton High Cliff.
[Hide Photo] From My Cold, Dead Hands, Barton High Cliff.
Joe Szot makes a belay at the top of P1 during an attempt on the "direct". Note that the normal belay for P1 is way right, around the corner.
[Hide Photo] Joe Szot makes a belay at the top of P1 during an attempt on the "direct". Note that the normal belay for P1 is way right, around the corner.
Starting P2 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands".
[Hide Photo] Starting P2 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands".
P1 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands".
[Hide Photo] P1 of "From My Cold, Dead Hands".