From My Cold, Dead Hands
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 380 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||1-25-2009 Jim Lawyer, Jeremy Haas|
|Page Views:||151 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Lawyer on Dec 26, 2016|
DescriptionThis is an enormous route that climbs the most obvious ice on the cliff.
Locate a huge left-facing corner on the right side of the Final Frontier buttress. The right wall of the corner is a huge ice-covered slab.
P1 WI3 M4: Climb the slab to its top. Traverse right, then down 6' to a stance. Move right around an arete and traverse right to a ledge. Small cams required for the belay. 150'
P2 WI5: Go straight up thin ice to a snow ledge, then straight up massive ice to a tree belay. 115'
P3 WI4: Move left and then go straight up to a rock cave. Continue up a column to rolling terrain. Belay at large pines. 115'
Descent: Walk left for 250' and locate a tree with a fixed rappel above Caringorm Corner. Rappel with a single rope.
At the top of the slab on P1, instead of traversing right, there is an offwidth crack that leads to ice. This "direct" would be an impressive achievement.