Libre Negra (Black Book)
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||82 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Gunkswest on Dec 26, 2016|
DescriptionThis route starts about 150 feet to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks. There is an open, grassy are directly in front of this buttress.
This route is supposedly the first rock climb done in Colombia (1938), by a Swiss guide named Kraus. The guidebook lists this as 5.6.
P1: Climb the fist crack (larger cams needed) or the steep buttress just right (a little spooky) to a ledge. Continue up to another ledge and a large block (there is a glue-in staple in this block that you'll see people TRing from). Step right, climb an easy chimney formed by the block with the staple to its top. Continue up to a ledge at the base of the black corner.
P2: Climb the black corner (crux, think about Kraus leading this in mountain boots, trailing a hemp rope in 1938), then continue up another corner and obvious features to the top.
The climb can easily be in more pitches if you wish to stay closer to your follower.
LocationThis route starts about 150 feet to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks.
To descend, walk along the top of the cliff toward town. Drop down an obvious gully on a path, which will deposit you on the tracks between the railroad cut and Zona el Riel.