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Hanging Spoons

WI5, Trad, Ice, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley… > N Face of Pitchoff

Description

Hanging Spoons is a column which drips over a high overhang near the top of the cliff left of Screw and Climaxe. In rare conditions, this hanging column touches down and becomes a pillar; in these conditions, it is not to be missed.

The original ascent climbed the back rock wall to reach the pillar. In Mellor's ice guide, he theorized that if the pillar ever touched down, it would be the hardest ice climb in the Adirondacks.

P1 WI3: Start up a steep, 15'-tall wall, then run up a low-angle slab to belay on the left in some trees. Tuck well into the trees to avoid ice from the column above.

P2 WI5: Continue up the slab to the column, and climb this (crux) to the top.

To descend, rappel the route.

Location

Walk left from Screw and Climaxe 200' to the next spot where an ice-covered slab reaches the ground.

Protection

Standard ice rack. If the ice column hasn't touched down, then you'll need rock gear for the back wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hanging Spoons is the large column, high on the cliff, in the center of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Hanging Spoons is the large column, high on the cliff, in the center of the photo.
The upper column of Hanging Spoons, in an especially fat-ice year.
[Hide Photo] The upper column of Hanging Spoons, in an especially fat-ice year.
Rappelling Hanging Spoons. Steep!
[Hide Photo] Rappelling Hanging Spoons. Steep!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Hard to imagine this being harder than the Fang at Underwood, and certainly doesn't appear to be in the same league as pitches like Dark Lord. But there's only one way to know... Mar 1, 2017