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Routes in Boulder Ruckle

Elysium T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh my God, we're gonna die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: C. Smith, M. Bagshaw, 9th August 2015
Page Views: 37 total, 3/month
Shared By: Martin Bagshaw on Dec 19, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Absolutely terrifying. Lots of large bits of loose rock on pitch 2 (up to a foot wide), with much removed during our ascent, just about without dropping any on the ropes. This route was climbed in error, thinking it was 'Jo', due to not taking photos on the camera of adjacent guidebook pages and shoe- horning the description into what we saw in front of us, also failing to register that the bail tat at the top of pitch 1 was bail tat and should therefore be used for bailing. Graded XS 5a.

P1, c. 15m - The route starts just right of Cima Petite, taking a rising diagonal traverse from the corner underneath the large overhang to the right- most sandy crack. Go up the sandy crack (first taste of loose stuff) to the top, then head left on the break for about 2 metres to belay in the corner. Ab off here if you value your life.

P2, c. 20m - Pull out of the corner, onto the face to the right, and climb this underneath a right trending diagonal corner on decent rock, over a slight bulge. Do not find the thread that you were expecting on 'Jo', but carry on diagonally right anyway to an arĂȘte. Arrange your last pieces of trustworthy gear, then move around the arĂȘte to the sandy corner, removing loose shite before you commit to the move. Bridge up very tentatively along the corner to the top, heart in mouth, bearing in mind even the big bits of rock may (and did) fall off. Towards the top of the corner, there is a decent - looking (but probably crap) large nut (size 8 or 9). Move out from under the corner, and head straight up over rocks held together with mud until you arrive at a 6ft wide boulder. Bomber .75 camalot under the boulder, breathe a sigh of relief, then belay off two stakes 15m apart.

Location

Just to the right of the roof crack, Cima Petite.

Protection

Regular rack with additional hammer and chisel, glue, concrete, riot sheild for the belayer, and a phone with the coastguard on speed dial.

Photos

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