5.12c,
Trad, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
FA: Unknown.
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (17) Mud Spring…
> Mud Spring Wing
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Gadgers Edge is a phenomenal route up the arete just left of The Long Riders' corner. Ramble up the deep, right facing corner (a #3 and/or #4 Camalot with long sling might be wise your first time) before stepping out of the corner to the left and up onto a pillar from which you can clip the first of six bolts. Several technical sequences lead to a good stance by the fourth bolt followed by a wild boulder problem crux at the fifth bolt (cold temps were helpful for me on this one, but regardless the falls are clean). Make the final clip and do one more move before gaining jugs and the anchor of The Long Riders.
Protection
6 bolts. Optional #3/#4 Camalots with long slings.