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Routes in Cueva Larga

Chipojo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mambises y Maulets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oculta Obsesión S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 85 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 233 total, 21/month
Shared By: Henri Alexander on Dec 18, 2016
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Climbing in Cuba is Alive and Well Details

Description

Oculta Obsesión is an undervalued route for the area. This sweet, overhanging route has great movement and tests your strength, balance and technique. There's a break right in the middle (where you need it!) by leaning into the flake with your head/shoulder (sorry short people). After that, pump your way to victory right when the steepness is almost unbearable. Great climb!

You kick the pedal and the motor starts gurgling and purring. You cruise through a smooth, winding road to a beautiful view. Then, you continue down the road, navigating through hairpin turns, s-turns, u-turns and you're doing everything you can to keep your hands on the handlebars and the bike on the road. Just when you think you're going to slip up... you reach the anchors.

Location

This route is on the left wall. It is about 3/4 of the way into the cave. Look for the big right-facing flake (your rest!) and the route starts about 6 feet to the left of that. The first bolt is hard to find. Look at the pictures.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.
WARNING: As of 12/2016, there is a concern with protection on this route. We climbed to the anchor to find one of the bolts had a crack in it. While it looked solid, it wasn't reassuring. After we left the area and talked to Yarobys Garcia, a major Cuban route developer, he said the first anchor (the one we thought was the finish) was put there by someone else and that the original anchor was a little higher. We didn't visually confirm this since we had already left, but Yarobys is a very reliable source for information.

With that said, the route is solid and we felt safe on it.

Photos

Christian B
West Hills, California
  5.11a
Christian B   West Hills, California
  5.11a
This route is so much fun! It's not a 11b I was able to onsight it but then again it's my style of climbing. Big moves with solid jugs and a crux of just fighting that pump clock. The anchors looked good when I did it. And I would run laps on this if I had the chance too. Get on this puppy! Left side of cave with the huge flake. You'll see the bolts more easily as you go up it. Soooo good. Feb 12, 2017