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In With The New

5.8, Sport, Alpine, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 17 votes
FA: Someone using pins, Cleaned and equipped by Mike S.
Wyoming > Cody > Island Area > Island

Description

A re-do of an old dirty, rarely if ever climbed, line. A ton of effort went into cleaning this line, as evidenced by the pile of detritus at the base.

Scurry up past the first bolt to a large ledge, being careful here as the sediment tends to collect here making it somewhat slippery. Using face holds and stemming, follow right facing corner for a couple more bolts. Work over or around flake to left to gain a no hands stance. Continue up face, just left of left facing corner on positive holds to clip and lower sport anchor.

Location

Second bolted route (counting from the west) on the south side of the Island proper.

Protection

11 bolts to sport anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route climbs the chunky corner to a nice upper section.
[Hide Photo] Route climbs the chunky corner to a nice upper section.
In With The New, 5.8
[Hide Photo] In With The New, 5.8

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derrick
Lakewood, CO
 
[Hide Comment] not the best 5.8 at the island, but some of the most interesting movement I've done anywhere, more of a novelty that a classic but certainty a worthy addition. Jan 17, 2017
Andrew S.
Bighorn Basin
 
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a nice cruiser route. Good bolt placement and a bit longer than some of the other moderates at the Island. Sep 19, 2020