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Routes in Gunshy wall

Aerial Boundaries T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DPH T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gunshy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hatchett Men T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mini-Moonlite T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Thumbs Up T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bloom, Vargas, 2000
Page Views: 124 total · 6/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Dec 16, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

An obscure line, this beautiful feature displays the bipolar nature of Sedona.
P1 5.11- 90 feet
About as striking as anything on the sand. Work up into the sweet thin hands flake . Hero crank past pods until the angle rolls back. Over far too soon this pitch is very good. The anchor wins the award for worst location ever. If you have an extra thin hands piece, clip anchor as directional and walk right on ledge and set belay there.
P2 5.10- 90 feet.
Munge hump into the nice baggy hand crack. As it widens, cast off with easy OW onto a trash ledge. Gingerly move into the stem box and slide to the anchor. Back up one bolt station with thin hands gear. This should tell you what the FA party thought about this pitch!

Location

Way out at the end of Marg's Draw past Fisher King 20 minutes. Look for a clean wall with a sweet flake and dihedral system. 100 yards past Hatchett Men. 1 HR+ hike.

Protection

Rack 1x fingers to baggy fingers 3-4x thin hands 2x hands to baggy hands 1 x fists. Optional OW piece. 70 m rope.
The Cuzco Tatapus protection team moved the endangered tat from this route and put it in a zoo. Both anchors now have chain.

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