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Routes in Heart of Marg's Draw.

Chossology T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Easy Rider T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fisher King, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Page Views: 148 total · 11/month
Shared By: Blake M on Dec 16, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A fine looking crack system on south facing wall behind Screaming Beseingi. While the line looks good, choss, munge, soft rock and blocks try and ruin the day. They succeed.

P1 5.9, 60 feet.
The Viagra pitch, it never gets hard. Climb a mungey thin hands to a detached flake with a bolt. Stem, pray and jam through softening rock to the rubble covered slab where another bolt awaits. Bolted belay in blocks of ultimate choss.

P2 5.11+ 110 feet.
"Crux pitch" Move left past blocks to hand crack in clean corner. Fortunately, everything is covered in silt, creating the perception of bad rock. Punch fists to sketch piller pulling. Crank layback past roof to looming big roof. Unpleasant contortionist crux on fragile holds and silt leads to bolted OW of dried pancake batter. Bolted belay.

P3 5.10+ 50 feet.
Step left past a bolt and execute terribly awkward sequence to corner. Awkward hand crack leads to EZ blocky terrain. Belay atop sofa block on fingers gears.

P4 5.10 75 feet.
"The almost good pitch". Step left to the leftmost crack above. Starts with fists and goes to hands. After a loose ledge punch up thinning crack to bolted belay. Climbs better than it looks, looks better then it climbs.

P5 5.9+ 50 feet
"The good pitch" Wide Layback to slot. Enter no hands rest. Bizarre, exposed and awkward.

Hike 3rd Class past terrible features to summit.

Location

Behind Screaming Besingi. South facing. Go up gulley East of Firecat Spire to limestone ledge. hike right on exposed ledge to bolted belay. Rap route with 70 meter and check into rehab.

Protection

1x tip and thin fingers. 2x fingers to fists. Several runners. Low self esteem.

Photos

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