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Routes in sueños de un seductor

Black Book (Libre Negra), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Compas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Tech S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
La Rana Reniega T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traversos Lochos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.5 Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 5.6 Crack/Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.7 Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 TR T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Swiss guide Kraus 1938
Page Views: 209 total, 19/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Dec 16, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

Two moderate classics, including the Black Book, start about 100 meters to the left of the Madonna.The base of the wall is flat and grassy and is located maybe 20 meters from the RR tracks. The start of this route is a prominent fist crack. Above, in the middle of the cliff, is an obvious right facing corner, that is the Black Book.

This is supposedly the first rock climb done in Colombia (1938).

P1: Climb the obvious fist crack (large gear) or the slightly spookier face just right of the crack to a ledge. Continue up to another ledge with a huge block that has a glue-in staple (optional belay here; you'll often see people TR'ing off this single anchor point). Step right and climb an easy chimney about 10 feet, then up to a large ledge at the base of the Black Book.

P2: Climb the Black Book, imagining you are Kraus in 1938 with a hemp rope, mountain boots and no pro (yikes). While you could belay above the Black Book, you can also continue up the corner and face above to the top (still a bit exciting).

Location

Two moderate classics, including the Black Book, start about 100 meters to the left of the Madonna.The base of the wall is flat and grassy and is located maybe 20 meters from the RR tracks. The start of this route is a prominent fist crack. Above, in the middle of the cliff, is an obvious right facing corner, that is the Black Book.

Walk to the right (toward town on a faint path, then drop down a small gully, gaining the RR tracks on the cliff side of the RR cut.

Protection

Carry up to at least a blue Camalot and some long slings (a few big pieces are useful if you are doing the intial fist crack).

Photos

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