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Routes in Primal Wall

Caveman S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Primal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Buck Shearouse, Marcus Floyd
Page Views: 162 total · 7/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Dec 11, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

Primal is a well protected, warmup, sport route that provides a nice crux near the top. The short, lower slab requires a series of easy smears to gain access to the vertical face and first bolt. Easy 5.6 - 5.7 climbing provides good holds for making chest high clips. Then, towards the top, the 5.8 crux forces the use of some balance and smaller vertical edges, below the last bolt, then small feet, slopers, and a high step to gain the rap anchors, at the last 5.9 crux, just above the last bolt.

Location

Start on the lower slab and head up to the first bolt on the vertical rock face. Follow the line of bolts to the top.

Protection

Quickdraws with a two bolt chain anchors (optional small cam placement before first bolt)

Photos

Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
 
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
 
Feel free to take a large brush or small broom to brush off the lower slab. Dec 23, 2016

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