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Routes in Quiet Earth Wall

2 Stroke Tantrum S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ANZAC Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Archibald Baxter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Naughty Climb, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
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Type: Sport, Aid, 425 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Aaron Cliff Allery and Zinna Jess Dobson
Page Views: 58 total · 3/month
Shared By: Cameron Fraser on Dec 8, 2016
Admins: Cameron Fraser

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Description

Also known as "Alphabetic Disorder". A classic multi pitch.

P1 (left variant, 23) - Free climbing up the face through awesomely featured rock. Trending rightwards. Can use rope assist at the crux to reduce the grade to 20/21.

P1 (right variant, 18 A0) - Aid straight up the bolt ladder with a little bit of easy free climbing.

P2 (16) - Easy climbing up face to next set of bolted anchors.

P3 (16) - More easy climbing up the face. Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked to make one long pitch.

P4 (21) - The money pitch. Start up the groove for three/four bolts before transitioning out left onto the face. Relish the exposure as you pull slab moves at the grade for another few bolts. From here crank up through the overhang (crux) with some cool bridge moves. Finish on easy ground back to the ground with some henious rope drag (bring expendable draws if possible).

P5 (17) - Short easy pitch to finish straight up the face on featured rock.

Walk off to the left. Meets up with main Castle rock track.

Location

Middle of Quiet Earth Wall. See freeclimb guide.

Protection

Take 16+ quickdraws

Photos

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