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Routes in Quiet Earth Wall

2 stroke tantrum S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ANZAC Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Archibald Baxter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Naughty Climb, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Cliff Ellery, Rachael Mayne, Brian Mercer and Richard Knot
Page Views: 80 total, 7/month
Shared By: Cameron Fraser on Dec 8, 2016
Admins: Cameron Fraser

You & This Route


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Description

One of the Castle Rock classics.

P1 (5.10b) - Climb the technical slab. Footwork is key. Finish pitch by breaking left and pulling up through tree to double bolt anchors. 25m.

P2 (5.9) - Technically an easy pitch, but bolting can be a little spaced and easy to get off route if not careful. Start up the face and through a small overhang, then follow the bolts up the face to the next anchors. 30m.

P3 (5.10c) - The best pitch of the route. From the belay head up easy ground on large holds up to a groove and small overhang. Clip the chain bolt and pull through to the above face (crux). An exposed rising traverse takes you to the next belay ledge. 3 star climbing in an exposed setting. 35m.

P4 (5.9) - An easy pitch to finish featuring a large phallic hold. 30m

To descend walk to the right, where you will find a public walking track leading down.

Location

Right hand end of Quiet Earth Wall. Starts up the slab just to the left of Two Stroke Tantrum. Refer to freeclimb guidebook for more detailed directions.

Protection

Take 12+ quick draws. Bolts can be a little spaced on easy ground like most climbs at Castle Rock.

Photos

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