Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blue Highways

Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enters Here T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ghost Dancing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heat-Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Indian Wars T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shouting Distracts the Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: First known ascent, 11/25/2016
Page Views: 176 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tricamus on Dec 7, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

While most won't agree, this is what you're looking for in Dolphin - squeeze chimneying. It's really not much harder, but more sustained and still encased in exfoliating grain. Some traffic will help this one out but until then you have been warned.

"You never feel better than when you start feeling good after you've been feeling bad"

Location

This is the obvious chimney in the dihedral of the rock on the left side of the narrow corridor. Look for the prominent yucca just below the base - don't worry, it's not in the way of the route.

Protection

Rack to #5 Camalot, long sleeves, and long pants. Sizes larger than 0.75 are useful for the anchor crack

Photos

Laura Lemire
  5.9
Laura Lemire  
  5.9
Crazy squeeze with the crux being low in the route. No hands start and then a very rough 10 feet to where the squeeze lets up and the climb gets easier. A great offwidth but it is super grainy and you will probably be cleaning the route wit, h your body on the way up. Bring a 3, 4 and 5. If you are uncomfortable with lipping out with a wide top out, bring a 6 for mental purposes. I would also agree with Rob about the 5-9 grade. It's harder than other 5-9 offwidths I've been on both in and out of Jtree... Nov 20, 2017
Rob Dizzle  
5.9
Excellent squeeze!! (so tight I couldn't wear a baseball cap under my helmet) Had to spread my knees out wide like a butterfly stretch to move up. Was able to bump a #4 up in the first part of the chimney, and found a #5 friend to be useful in the second part. Would rate climb at 5.9. No lower body in the beginning and then having to exit the chimney once it constricts to tight then having to get back in again is tricky. Great climb for those seeking a sadistic grunt-fest. Oct 24, 2017

More About Indian Wars

Printer-Friendly Guide