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Routes in Sixth Canyon & Paradise Crags

Bush the Imbecile - Tranquility Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
King Charles - The Big K Mart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mike McGrale, Chad Goldstein, Urmas Franosch 2000's GU
Page Views: 229 total · 12/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Dec 5, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A varied route on excellent orange rock. Line goes straight up the center of the steep face. There is a weird mix of hammered stoppers and other fixed gear alongside the bolted anchors.. maybe the next party can help clean up the mess.

P1) Thin cracks lead up and left towards an obvious RF wide crack/chimney. Pass a bolt in the wide en route to a bolted anchor. 5.9
P2) Awesome stemming up a RF corner with double cracks, exit right and back left past 3 bolts to a bolted anchor. 5.10
P3) Funky tight waterchute & crack with some cool body english to bolted anchor. 5.10
P4) Out left onto the steep face past 3 bolts (crux), then runout slab past a couple more bolts and an exciting finish to a bolted anchor. 5.11a
P5) Traverse left or right on the dike and climb munge-y cracks up to the ridgeline. Worst pitch on route. Neither option looked good; we went left. 5.hard/weird R
P6&7) Easier blocky terrain up the ridge. We simulclimbed up to the summit block. 5.7
P8) Face climb the knobby summit block past one bolt to the top. Spectacular finish! 5.8?

The route was equipped for double-rope rappels from fixed anchors, but since we only had one rope we downclimbed over the summit and made improvised rappels into the gully below, leaving stoppers and slings along the way.

Location

Park at Ainslee Meadow and ascend the gully directly behind. There are 3 prominent orange aretes visible from the 395 - King Charles takes a direct line up the center of the wall on the "middle arete" - this formation is called The Big K Mart

Protection

Standard double rack and stoppers. Bolted anchors through P4 and some fixed nuts/slings above that for rappels.

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