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Routes in Morgan Road

Airmail T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lifeline T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mattson
Page Views: 521 total · 38/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Dec 5, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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This is an astonishing route that if found anywhere else would be the "it" route to do...Well maybe just the second pitch, a ridiculous overhanging splitter that seems too good to be true!

Pitch 1 (5.11+): Ramble a few feet up through the choss to a pedestal clip a bolt and proceed to do a classic Sedona "approach" pitch. (loose rock, choss, sand) The last 10 -15 feet after passing the last bolt are actually quite fun and thought provoking with better quality rock. This will place you on a nice ledge with what you came for looming above. One Star.

Pitch 2 (5.13): Crawl up into the obvious pod above and prepare for the never ending pump fest! The crack after the pod starts as thin hands and gradually tapers down through the sizes; #1s, .75s, .5s, .4s, .3s, and ends with two protection bolts. There is no really hard move just a lot of not so easy ones. The entire pitch is greatly varied with the sizes and angles, making it incredibly fun and interesting. The jams and locks are good but the overhanging nature makes you want to move fast and efficiently and the ending layback section is stimulating and keeps your head on a swivel. An intense 5 star pitch!


Three bolt anchors
Single 60 should get you down


Pitch 1:
A mixed bag; runners, .1 to #3?

Pitch 2:
4X #1s
3X .75s
1x .5
1x .4
1x .3
2x quickdraws


J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Very true. I didn't think that drones could handle The Magnetic Convergence?? I think Matt S was the one who suggested the anti-pump at the top, it's pretty much magic climbing up there. Should post the spray for AirMail too? Dec 6, 2016
I think the video was the official release to the public, didn't know it was a secret. Great history on the first ascent and the route. I'll remember to skip the last bolt next time! Dec 6, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
The finest. Released to the public though?! Better adjust the approach beta to send everyone through the vortex. I kid...

Historical fun Facts: According to Burcham when John found this line he was out wandering around on the ridge far to the west of the feature. When he looked up and saw the shield he knew that he had found the line of his life. Bold statement for a climber that had already climbed some of the finest lines in AZ. Originally the OG first pitch avoided the bolted section which was later added by Childs. Also the main line originally had less bolts and was only protected by a pin at the top. The bolts were added by Childs and a bonus bolt was added in that section. True local red point 'skips the last bolt''... as would say MS. Dec 6, 2016
Enter the Vortex! Dec 5, 2016