Type: Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), Grade II
FA: A Moore, H Walker and E Whymper guided by C Almer & M Croz, 25 June, 1864
Page Views: 1,589 total · 25/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Dec 5, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

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This is predominantly a glaciated snow climb to the ridge which is then followed on snow and class III/IV rocks (PD rating) to the final summit (4101 meters). In recent years there has been a fair amount of serac shifting on the approach and there is the risk of slab avalanches (multiple fatalities in October, 2015) check conditions at the Ecrins hut for the latest information.
From the hut follow the Glacier Blanc up the North flank by the path of least resistance avoiding crevasses and seracs, aiming for the upper glacier plateau and the Breche Lory on the right. This point separates the Barre on the left from the Dome de Neige des Ecrins on the right. At the breche/col the ridge proper is accessed by walking around the left side of the rock step and climbing an easy chimney around 30 feet in height. At the top of the chimney go left up the crest of the ridge to the summit or follow it just below on the left side (North) on snow and easy rocks.


The route can be done car to car from Pre de Madame Carle by following the Glacier Blanc trail and then using directions above. It is recommended to stay at the Ecrins Hut (3175 meters) if acclimatization is required. Descend by reversing the climb. Round trip from the hut should be around 4 to 5 hours depending on "traffic". The route has been climbed from the parking lot to summit in less that 2 hours.


roped glaciated travel. Mountain ax and crampons