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Pahine Nawri S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rudra pinnacle - West Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: NA
Page Views: 496 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jayant Wakode on Dec 5, 2016
Admins: Gokul

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Description

A fascinating climb. It is unique due to the stemming/bridging style of climbing. Which is rare to find. Belayer and leader should be very cautious all the time for loose rocks in the last 2 pitches.




Pitch1: 5.5/ French 4+
Easy slab climb starting from the col between Nawra and Nawri.


Pitch2: Walk/traverse Traverse to reach in the chimney which is a separation between Nawri and Sasra hill. 5-6 persons can safely sit here. There's only one bolt for self anchoring. But the space is large enough and cozy.

Pitch3: 5.10c/6b Hardest pitch of the route but probably not the crux of the climb. Scary run outs in the last pitch are dominant. Start with bridging below the choke stone. After about 20ft of bridging, your head will be about to touch the choke stone. After clipping the 3rd bolt, in bridging position, move out of the chimney and shift to a ledge on the left on the face of Sasra hill. About 3 more hard moves will take you above the choke stone. i.e. Station-3


Pitch4: 5.10b/6a+ Not the hardest pitch. But definitely the crux. Starts with a bridging for about 30ft. Then shift to the face of Nawri. Shifting is an interesting move. It isn't hard if done smartly. After shifting to the Nawri's face, hide and seek with the bolts begin. Every line looks climbable and the bolts aren't in straight line. climb cautiously and find the bolts. Why Cautiously? Leader's fall may result in a fatal bang with the Sasra face behind.The overall climbing line stays on your left; but not too left. Keep 3 tripled Quickdraws or 3 long runners to avoid the rope drag. 1 long QD will be needed before shifting to Nawri's face and 2 others after the shifting. Bolt just before the climb may not be visible due to bush (till mid-Dec). So, try to spot it. It is on the leftward edge. Leading this pitch can be tricky but very rewarding.


Abseil:Summit >> Station 3 >> Ground.

Use 70m line.

Location

Pahine Nawra, Nawri pinnacles are clearly visible from Pahine village. Climb starts from the col between pahine nawra and pahine nawri.

Protection

Well bolted using chemical bolts. Last pitch runouts are long and scary.

Photos

Jayant Wakode
Mumbai, Maharashtra
  5.10d R
Jayant Wakode   Mumbai, Maharashtra
  5.10d R
I cannot specify the sizing. Since I have no experience in using trad gear. But just to give an approximation, crack width is about 3-5 cms. But if you know the route correctly, and climb with eyes really wide open, you can spot the bolts. Jan 10, 2018
T T Niranjan
Mumbai Suburban
T T Niranjan   Mumbai Suburban
"There are cracks for placing gear on the last scree section." What piece or pieces do you recommend carrying?

And how long are the pitches? Jan 9, 2018

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