Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 326 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Dec 4, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Stand start with small incut crimp for the left hand and a right hand undercling. Get a high right toe and pull on with difficulty. As you pull on, the left toe naturally kicks up off the ground and hits the roof. Getting established onto the boulder is probably the physical crux. Once on the boulder press off that left hand and toe and reach up to a good hold in the horizontal split.
Figure out how to match hands and get a foot in the crack. From here trust the right toe and release both hands and lunge for the jug at the lip. This is the mental crux of the climb. Very unique and a combo of power, technique and finesse!

This is a really fun climb to get on with friends. Starting with both hands in the crack is around v1.

Location

This unique boulder problem lies just uphill from Poseidon and the Chasm Area. While facing Poseidon, look to your left past the lowball "Mart Fart", and walk up the hill about 25 yards. This boulder is sitting on top of a pedestal boulder which creates a roof. It will be on the left side of the boulder, and it climbs the obvious scoop and horizontal split.

Protection

At least three crash pads and a spotter. The landing isn't the best, but if you decide to bail you can jump down and right to flat ground or backwards onto a rock which can be padded.

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