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Routes in The Swamp Boulders

Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 330 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Dec 3, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

A hard technical problem with a crux topout on a blank slab. Sit start with a right hand sloper and a small lefthand pinch. Pull on backflagging and square up for the first move to a right hand sloper sidepull. From here bump the lefthand out to a bad seam and compress. Move your feet and go to an arete like feature with the right hand. Find your feet and stand up to increasingly worse holds. Get your feet up on the slab and balance your way up! Testpiece of the area!

Location

Left of "Point of No Return". Just to the right of "The Swamp Crack".

Protection

1 or 2 pads

Photos

Miles Galloway
Raymond, nh
 
Miles Galloway   Raymond, nh
 
vimeo.com/229042421
Not the greatest footage, but here's how I ended up sending it. "Keep em' rolling" Aug 9, 2017
Youth left on the little slippery triangle pinch crimp? Aug 10, 2017
Yes Brett that's the left starting hold Aug 10, 2017
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V6
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
  V6
What is the consensus on how hard this thing is? 7A? Aug 13, 2017
Miles Galloway
Raymond, nh
 
Miles Galloway   Raymond, nh
 
V4-3? Aug 18, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
This is a fun little line, but it's hard to give it more than one star with how mossy/dirty the top is. It would definitely benefit from a bit more love up top, as would all the lines on this boulder. Apr 24, 2018
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V6
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
  V6
This boulder could easily use a few hours of cleaning. Looks like there could be a few more lines to be climbed on it as well. Apr 25, 2018
Miles Galloway
Raymond, nh
 
Miles Galloway   Raymond, nh
 
I thought I cleaned up enough holds to get established on the bulge. I try not to destroy more plant life than what’s needed to get one on top of the rock, but if a completely plant ridden boulder is what it takes to make it a 2 star problem I guess I’ll spend some more time scrubbing. Without constant maintenance plant life is going to find a way here in New England. I don’t think it deters from the quality of rock
and movement of a climb. If you’re climbing in New England I suggest you bring a brush and some jeans you don’t mind getting muddy. May 6, 2018
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
Miles- I hope you weren't offended by my comments. I appreciate your approach to cleaning. It shows respect towards the environment that we are fortunate to climb in. My comments stem more from the fact that I think these lines are very much worth traffic and attention as they are an alternative (perhaps better) to the well traveled climbs in the Zoo area, etc. And I think they would likely see more traffic if there was a bit more cleaning on them. I'm thinking this line, McCaber's Direct (which is barely cleaned) and The Swamp Crack/Direct. Just a bit more would go a long way. I found most of your other lines in this area- Swamp Is On, Swampedelic Pop, etc.- to be cleaned the perfect amount. I'd love to help out (I think I've demonstrated that through my actions), but I'm generally only back in NH for around a month or two per year, so it makes that challenging. Super stoked on ticking the lines that I haven't climbed in this area come Fall. May 9, 2018
Miles Galloway
Raymond, nh
 
Miles Galloway   Raymond, nh
 
No worries here Christian, you’re right. I went back the other day and refreshed my eyes on it, it can use some more love for sure. I’m going to make some time to tidy the lines I’ve posted. I appreciate your opinion and didn’t mean for my previous comment to sound impolite. See you out there! May 10, 2018

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