PRINT: Rock Climb Chasm of Joy, Anchorage & South Central Alaska

Chasm of Joy

5.7, Trad, Alpine, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Nick Weicht
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Valdez Area Rock > Worthington Ridge Tra…

Description

This one pitch chimney climb is a trip and hopefully the route will not fall off the mountain like the original trail did a decade ago. This climb was first done solo in running shoes and a hand splint after scrambling up from the glacier with no rope or gear. I would not recommend any of this because that would be f-ing stupid, please learn from my mistakes. Please approach from the top for this fun climb. That being said, the route is a blast and can be protected with gear as you shimmy up a 2' wide by 50' tall crack that is like few others.

Location

These Routes in the area of the Worthington Ridge Trail. From the Worthington Glacier parking lot follow the trail head signs and trail for about 3/4 miles and 500 vertical feet. One of the reasons for this title is due to the Ridge Trail being the safe approach to routes in the area. DO NOT TRY AND CLIMB UP TO THIS AREA FROM THE GLACIER!!!. A hiker and now friend attempted this and nearly lost his life by slipping off the scree slope and pitching off a 50' face.

Protection

Small to Medium Gear, Alpine Anchor... get creative.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rap in to this approach bench from witch the route can be seen in the distance. ( this approach has fallen off of the mountain. Repel down the route )

Morgan Whitfield snapping a badass photo of the chasm.

This is the top of the Chasm, It is located in the re-routed section of the Ridge Trail due to the fact that this part of the original trail is now lying on the Glacier 300 feet below.

This is the Chasm viewed from below (do not approach from here)

This photo is from the base of the route and should get any climber excited.