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Routes in 5. Romance Novels

Going Steady TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Target, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middlemarch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New York to Dallas 33 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Smoke TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pride and Prejudice TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vanity Fair TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Two Paths Meet TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek
Page Views: 47 total, 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Interesting moves in a variety of rock situations.

Up into the dihedral with crack and flake, but instead of continuing up that to the roof, step left to the edge of left face of the dihedral, then over that and left up the face to a big ledge. Up the left side of the face (just right of big right-facing corner) to the top.
. . Variation (one 5.10b move): up the center right of upper face to top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

About 10-12 feet left of arete in center (lowest point) of main (SW) side of sector, below left from a 2.5ft-deep dihedral / open book just above, just below a wide book somewhat L-facting, with flake and 1-2-inch crack which leads up to a 1.5-ft-deep roof.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Romance Novels sector .

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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