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Golden Gate

5.13a, Trad, 3000 ft, 36 pitches, Grade VI,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Alexander Huber, Max Reichel - October 2001
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > El Capitan > Southwest Face
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Starts after the 20 first pitches of Salathé.

Crux is definitely the "Down Climb" (12c)
"The Move" pitch is really easier than 5.13a if your tall
"Chickenwing" the start is R just above the belay
"Golden desert" is about 5.12
"The A5 traverse" is about 5.12c/d
"Razorblades" pitches are scary but amazing !

Location

Start with the Free Blast

Protection

2-3 sets from .3" to 4" (Offsets good for the freeblast)
1 n°5 Camalot
1 (or 2) n°6 Camalot
1 or 2 sets of nuts

On november 2016, one bolt is missing on R27 (start of "the move" pitch) bad fall on belay is possible

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The "Move" Pitch
[Hide Photo] The "Move" Pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] If I remember correctly, there's either a fixed wire or a bomber wire placement off the belay of the move pitch. (Just before a fixed pin?) I had a bolt higher on the pitch pull out on me. (moving into the stance that starts the move) Not sure if it's still MIA or not. Mar 2, 2018
[Hide Comment] As of 5/18, those bolts are still gone on The Move.There's a line with loops to clip as pro (or aid up and clip the top bolt like I did). Also, if you get your hands on a topo that suggests a "better" alternate finish to the route going right, which all the topos I've seen do, that seems ludicrous. The .12a pitch looks horrendous. As does the top out.

The original left finish up the "scary" flakes is exciting but not that hard of climbing. Very memorable. The last pitch is tough right to the end. May 31, 2018
Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California
 
[Hide Comment] The alt finish is actually really fun, a little slick and spicy but is work checking out. You start up the dihedral and then traverse under the roof to the mega jug knob hike to the right. I do however, agree the original finish up the crazy flakes is by far the better way, and has fine pro IMO. Oct 29, 2018
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
[Hide Comment] Many of the belays are currently one good bolt and one older bolt. Consider bringing a bolt kit and replacing one or two for posterity. Nov 29, 2018