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Routes in Primitive Buttress

Back to the Primitive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Boving Reflection T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Easter Island T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jumanji T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lollipop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost World, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Làjiāo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raven (MeiYouLe variation), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raven, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Saving Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seed to a Tree T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Through the Looking Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Truffula Tree T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Truffula Tree (the Lorax variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Eric Walden (Mattie Cedar), Jeff Tarshis (Froggy Lockwood), and Aaron Stireman (Oreo Johnson)
Page Views: 162 total, 13/month
Shared By: Serial Crusher on Nov 28, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A fantastic corner route with thin edging and technical sequential moves. Some of the gear is tiny but it's locker. When the crack really thins down to nothing, theres a bolt to clip. This route is downright amazing whether you are the seasoned leader or just getting into corner climbing. It really doesn't get any better than this. Techy, splitter, airy.

Location

Just left and uphill of The Raven. Follow a thin trail up some beaten steps to the top of the gully. This is the same gully start as for the Black Hole, except head to the top of the gully up some steeper terrain. Look for the fixed batman rope with knots in it and pull yourself up to get to the base of the route. A big roof should be overhead about 250 feet above you.

Protection

Thinner but bomber gear in the start, then clip 3 brand new shiny 1/2 cobra bolts up to a new 2 bolt anchor. Better bring all the small stuff and a standard rack up to #3. 2 belay bolts at the bottom for comfort and ease.

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