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Routes in Snickers - South Face

Dances with Seals T A2
Grain Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pussy in Boots T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet Ginger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
When You're A Jet T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
When You're Erect T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
When You're Not A Jet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Dick Cilley, maybe 1980/81 (TR) Hidetaka Suzuki, (FL)
Page Views: 339 total · 16/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Nov 28, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A long reach out from under the bulge will get your fingers into the lip like crack. Hand traverse and rand hook your way across to the vertical crack then up. When the crack goes vertical you may need to scoop some dirt or sand out of crack. I believe a loose block that lived in there is now gone. Gets 3 stars for the coolness of the lip crack and location.

This route was named after the song in West Side Story. Mr. Cilley always loved them showtunes!

Location

This is the obvious slash going from low left to up and right across the bulging lip on the South Face of Snickers. Starts on the left end of the face that also has the route Dancing With Seals. A nice warm spot in the winter. Descend to climbers left.

Protection

In an ad for Aliens, Hidetaka Suzuki is leading this route on what I would guess are Aliens. If you were going to lead it, stuff in the 1/2" to 3/4" range should go in the traversing section. I can't really remember what would go in the vertical section, but a guess would be cams around 1" to 1.5"

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.11+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.11+
Here is a touchstone for you young guys:

youtube.com/watch?v=c9z33la… Nov 30, 2016

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