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Routes in Franklin Butte

Elbow Grease T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Trevor Bowman, Emily Reinsel 11/26/16
Page Views: 105 total, 8/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Nov 28, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route lies on the expansive southwest face, a few hundred meters north of the southernmost prow of the mesa. It is identifiable by the fairly obvious splitter crack of the second pitch, which is on a panel of lighter rock that has a calcite coating. We chose the line for the appealing splitter, but it turned out to be both harder, and a touch grungier than it looked. It was also a warm option for a cold day, as it is sunny and in a minor amphitheater keeping it somewhat sheltered. We opted for this as the most appealing/straightforward looking option after a tour of the southeast face, south prow and southern part of the southwest face. It turned out to be only mediocre, but should be somewhat safer now at least with a lot of trundling. It does offer a relatively straightforward way to summit this massive formation.

P1--Start up a short flake to a rubble ledge, wriggle up a featured wide crack on the left side of a big block to another blocky ledge, carefully pick your way up an obtuse corner on hollow face holds (a bit heady) to a crack on the left side of another big block, place some gear and sling it LONG before tip-toeing left on a narrow shelf to clip a hangerless bolt (use a stopper or rivet hanger, I forgot hangers, sorry!) and pull some cool moves on a pocket/jug and edges just left onto a big ledge, finish up an easy choss corridor to another big ledge below the obvious splitter of P2. Belay off of a big slung block with gear (.5 BD) behind it and under a bush. This is a somewhat heads up pitch due to the blocky rock, but should hopefully be a bit better now. 5.10-, 80'

P2-- The obvious splitter starts as slightly offset tight hands on good rock with stemming to the pillar on the right, it quickly pinches down to ringlocks and fingers below a pod and the rock turns sandy and flaky in this hardest section, above this it opens to tight hands again, with stemming out right to a second pillar, before finishing with flared, fists with calcite in the crack.It ends on a good ledge with a two bolt anchor.
On the FA, this was lead mostly free up to about .11-, with some cam pulling through the hardest sections. If the splitter were all as good as the lower 1/2, it would be a top-notch pitch for the VOG, but alas... As is, it can easily be clean aided, or done as free-as-you-feel; with some crack cleaning through the hard section, it could go entirely free. C1 or 5.10+/11- CO, 80'

Ditch your stuff and solo up a 15' low-angle, chimney/slot to the summit plateau. Walk back (north) below some caprock, and cut right (east), picking a path between a few small benches and onto the expansive summit proper. Make sure you mark your path, at least mentally, so you can retrace it and find the top of the route to descend; the summit plateau is massive and can be surprisingly disorienting if you're not paying attention.

Enjoy the vistas, which are the best I've seen in the VOG!

Rap the route with a single 60m rope. The anchor on P2 is two cold shuts placed on the right wall (left wall would have been better, but was choss; run the rope down the top of the splitter and it should be fine to pull). P1 anchor is rope around a huge block with rings.

Location

In the southernmost amphitheater on the southwest face. A couple hundred meters north of the southernmost point of the mesa. Refer to overview pictures.

Protection

In BD sizes:
(2X) .3-#4
small stopper or rivet hanger
slings
15' or replacement webbing for rap anchor on P1
60 rope

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