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Routes in Worldtrip

Changing Plans S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Check S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Finally Home S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Basil S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Kickapoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Keo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Ku S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mrs. Pok S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Sightseeing! S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sound of Silence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Weidnerworldwide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Uli Weidner
Page Views: 84 total · 6/month
Shared By: Todd H on Nov 28, 2016
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Description

Big and complex wandering line with great moves and rock. The main crux is very long and involves passing left underneath the arching roof and then angling back right above it. After that you follow a tufa straight up and mantel it to gain a no-hands rest preceding the technical crux: a short rightward traverse using terrible handholds. Finish that and you still have some fairly difficult moves to reach the upper roof and skirt around the right side of it. A harder variation tackles the upper roof directly.

Location

Right of Mr. Keo

Protection

Bolts. Long draws are recommended at the first roof to help with rope drag later on. Also there's an extremely difficult clip toward the end of the main crux but it's safe to skip.

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