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Routes in Gothic Nightmare

Nightmare on Onion Creek T A4
Something Wicked This Way Comes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Heavy Duty, Kevin Chase
Page Views: 301 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 28, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1 - A4 thin/nebulous, hooks
P2 - A3 in corner
P3 - A2 to bolt ladder
P4 - A3 thin in overhanging dihedral to bolt ladder
P5 - A3 bolt ladder to saddle anchor then two bolts to the top.

Location

Middle of the face. Route goes to the lower sub-summit, not the true summit.The first 3.5 pitches are great, the rest is crap.

Protection

Standard Mystery Towers nailing rack with some big cams, hooks, Peckers, Spectres, and tie-offs (many).

"Bolt ladder" means crappy drilled angles sticking 3/4 out of the hole (or more) and bolts eroded out 1 to 2 inches (or more). Stuff easily pulled out by hand. Bring a drill, a ton of tie-offs, and a sense of humor. Ours was the 2nd ascent of this route 19 years after the first. The erosion was astounding.

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