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Routes in Crimson Tide Wall

Juniperi T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oh My God! T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oh My Quad! T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scarlet Sunset S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tequila Sunrise S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Colin Dandridge
Page Views: 235 total, 19/month
Shared By: Colin Dandridge on Nov 27, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This 35' route is above Crimson Tide Wall proper. It is along the same ridge line band that forms Lookout Mountain Crag, just further west. The best way to identify the route is by approaching back from CTW and identifying the angled crack on the left/east. Scramble through vegetation to the base. Start with the undercling, and move up left into a sideways jug. From there, rock into the crack, and use a mix of face and crack to top out. Getting off the ground and moving into the crack are the two cruxes of this short route.

Location

Once across the guard rail, it is possible to walk directly to the top anchor crack and set up for a rappel. There is a faint deer trail leading to it, otherwise follow the main "trail" down towards Crimson Tide Wall, but cut to the east once you've dropped down past the first tier. You should be looking at wall now if you look back towards the road, keep walking east along wall until you see the dihedral crack. It is easier to scramble around further east and then head up the rocks. Still there is lots of vegetation at the base and also a cave to the right.

Protection

I used cams up to #4 BD, but they are not required. There are plenty of nut placements as well as cam placments. Bring a standard rack with extra hand-plus size cams for the anchor.

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