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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 17 ft
FA: Troy Fauteaux, April 30/2017
Page Views: 574 total · 33/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Nov 26, 2016 with updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

One of the newest hard climbs in the Den. A tall and proud line on the back of the Walrus Boulder with a crux move down low. Stand start with your hands on two sloping crimps in the horizontal seam and make a powerful first move to the sketchy looking flake above. Once you've made the first move continue up using sloping holds and the arete for a high off the deck finish on solid holds.

Location

Around the back of the Walrus Boulder. If looking at Feeling for the Heavens, walk ten feet right to a large, steep overhang. Look for a thin horizontal seam splitting the middle of the wall.

Protection

Many pads and spotters if you want to go all the way, it is TALL!

Photos

Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
This isn't a "long-forgotten project" and the first move is nothing like anything on confident man, the holds keep breaking so no one seems to be that invested in it, though it has been tried and is an interesting line for sure. If I were to describe it in its current state I'd say a giant campus-board-esque move to an okay hold then some footwork to gain better holds to a mellow topout. It's hard, but (imo) nowhere near v12.

Personally, I wouldn't post climbs on here that I wasn't very familiar with, much less hadn't even tried, but to each their own. Nov 26, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
I have to agree with Ian. While we all appreciate your enthusiasm for climbing, perhaps you could use a bit more discretion in deciding what routes to post. Most of the climbs you've contributed haven't been posted previously because they're either broken, of very low quality or seem implausible, not because they've been forgotten about.

For myself personally, I feel that my contributions are most meaningful when I have enough intimate knowledge of a climb that I can provide meaningful descriptions/insight for that given line.

As for this line in particular, it certainly isn't forgotten. It's on my list but I, like most people, have been deterred a bit by the somewhat low quality rock and the monumental cleaning effort that it will require. But, the crux is definitely the first move or two and like Ian said, it's pretty comparable to something like a 1-5 on a campus board off of decent holds. My guess is that move is closer to v9/10. My friend and I came pretty close to sticking it when we decided to try the move one day. A power beast like Troy or Ian could probably do this fairly quickly, if they were willing to do put in the day or more of cleaning that it will require and deal with the tricky logistics of actually hanging a line to do all of that. Nov 27, 2016
Dear Christian and Ian,

I see what you mean. I'm on the site so much that I got overenthusiastic about posting routes and I'll be more careful when I contribute in the future to abide by these guidelines. Thanks for being nice about it. See you out there! Nov 27, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Want to apologize for the snarky tone of my first comment, just reread it and it came off much worse than I intended it to, such is text. I'm certainly appreciative of the enthusiasm. Hope you had a good holiday Graham and got outside between the bouts of rain and crushed per usual! Nov 27, 2016
No problem Ian, you were just trying to get a point across. The feeling is mutual! Nov 29, 2016
Andrew Orde
Hollis NH
Andrew Orde   Hollis NH
Wait for it.... Apr 30, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9
Managed to climb this proud and obscure line the other day.

After I had put in a few hours of effort cleaning it the day beforehand I was instantly hooked on the process of working this boulder problem. Something about it intrigued me. I just really wanted to get out and try something new I guess.

The entire problem comes down to the first move, which is a super low percentage move to a 3 finger flake about 4 feet up. Once you snag this you have a few big moves to good but slopey holds and a high off the deck finish.

As far as rock quality goes. The only hold that has potential of breaking is the first flake you are jumping to. Which also happens to be the crux move. After that you are on solid holds over a very flat landing. This thing really is a good climb. Hoping the flake stays and this thing is able to see some more repeats in the near future!

I did make a quick video of the process I put into this climb. It ended up only being two days of effort but this was one of those climbs I was willing to put in weeks of work into. Hope someone else will enjoy it as much as I did. Anyway here is the video. Enjoy. youtube.com/watch?v=QKhK-xN… May 2, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9
Whether this is an FA or not I can't be sure. It seems like a problem like this would have certainly been done being right next to one of the best V6's in Pawtuckaway, "Individual Medley", but that is part of the mystery that intrigued me. Reestablishing a line that people once thought was a 0 star line and giving it a chance only to realize that it is actually a 3 star line. That to me is what Pawtuckaway is all about. Going off the beaten path and finding the hidden gems that don't get the credit they deserve and giving them a chance. May 2, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Nice job, Troy. It looks/climbs as good as I hoped it would. May 4, 2017

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