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Routes in Mystery Spire

Cracked Code T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inversion Virgin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mystery Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Derek Field & Emma Lodes (2016)
Page Views: 403 total · 27/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 24, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Cracked Code climbs the main right-leaning crack system splitting the south face of Mystery Spire.

Pitch 1 (5.10, 85 feet) Start by bouldering up to a small ledge and take the thin finger crack that curves left into a wacky offwidth pod about 20 feet off the ground. Above the pod, continue up the main right-leaning ramp through various crack sizes, passing a fixed black mastercam. Right below the anchor ledge, a band of lighter-colored sandstone presents a fun layback or stemming sequence - your choice! Belay from two-bolt chain anchor on big comfy ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 75 feet) Avoid the sketchy wideness by climbing the sporty face to the right, pulling over a rooflet on limestone horns into a low-angle finger crack, then over some cartoon jugs and eventually to a clean offwidth that takes a bumped #5 cam nicely. After birthing yourself from the widening offwidth, you have two options for reaching the anchor tree, which is found on the southwest (tallest) summit.
1. Tiptoe traverse: Stem up easy ground between the two spires before committing to the left one, traversing 15 feet (5.5 R) to a slung tree.
2. Jump-across: Climb the right-hand spire (5.7 R) and then jump across the small but exciting gap to the left one. Turn left and downclimb a few feet to a slung tree.

Rappel the route (2 raps) with a single 60m rope.

Location

Obvious right-leaning crack splitting the south face of Mystery Spire.

Protection

Standard rack to 5"
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
Way to go, Derek! Got another addition to Boynton... Look forward to climbing this one. Nov 26, 2016

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