All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > West Sedona > Dry Creek Road Area > Boynton Canyon > Mystery Spire
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Derek Field & Emma Lodes (2016)|
|Page Views:||403 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Derek Field on Nov 24, 2016|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionCracked Code climbs the main right-leaning crack system splitting the south face of Mystery Spire.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 85 feet) Start by bouldering up to a small ledge and take the thin finger crack that curves left into a wacky offwidth pod about 20 feet off the ground. Above the pod, continue up the main right-leaning ramp through various crack sizes, passing a fixed black mastercam. Right below the anchor ledge, a band of lighter-colored sandstone presents a fun layback or stemming sequence - your choice! Belay from two-bolt chain anchor on big comfy ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 75 feet) Avoid the sketchy wideness by climbing the sporty face to the right, pulling over a rooflet on limestone horns into a low-angle finger crack, then over some cartoon jugs and eventually to a clean offwidth that takes a bumped #5 cam nicely. After birthing yourself from the widening offwidth, you have two options for reaching the anchor tree, which is found on the southwest (tallest) summit.
1. Tiptoe traverse: Stem up easy ground between the two spires before committing to the left one, traversing 15 feet (5.5 R) to a slung tree.
2. Jump-across: Climb the right-hand spire (5.7 R) and then jump across the small but exciting gap to the left one. Turn left and downclimb a few feet to a slung tree.
Rappel the route (2 raps) with a single 60m rope.