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Sperm Bank

5.11, Trad, 35 ft,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Wade Plafcan, swadeky
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Sabbatical Wall
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts in easy #3 flare chimney leading up to a detached looking handcrack splitter mini pillar roof. This leads you to a Mega Left facing OW corner. This corner goes from tight #5s to wide #5s over 60 feet of so. Dont get your knee stuck!

Location

Right side of Sabbatical Wall. Walk under a leaning pillar tunnel and walk 30 seconds climbers right. The plaque now reads "WP".

Protection

70m rope, make sure to knot your ends!

Camalots: 1-#1s, 3-#3s, 3-#4s, 4-5 #5s, 1 #6 at the start of the OW is optional to save your #5s if you dont have enough.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route showing the chimney start
[Hide Photo] Route showing the chimney start
The route from the base
[Hide Photo] The route from the base