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Artifact

5.7, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Marcus Floyd
Missouri > CM: Providence > N Area > Spire Area > Artifact Wall

Description

Artifact, feels like a 5.6 to 5.7, follows a broken crack and line of dihedrals, just right of the center of Artifact Wall. Start on the lower left facing crack to clip the first bolt then take a high step right, moving through the lower slab crux. Follow the left facing flake past two more bolts then up and left to the middle dihedral. Smaller cams protect this section and the next section just above. Use a longer runner to reduce rope drag before climbing left out of the upper dihedral. Continue up the ramp using a sling around and though a hole in the rock then a large cam just before reaching the large rap tree at the summit. Wrap slings around the tree to rappel or down climb a bit to use the rap anchors 12 feet below. Requires some continued cleaning during repeat ascents. Have your belayer stand to the right of the first bolt to avoid any falling chert during the second half of the route.

Location

Artifact Wall

Protection

Mixed route, take a standard rack, including smaller cams, 24" runners, and helmet

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the seam and dihedrals up the center of the wall
[Hide Photo] Follow the seam and dihedrals up the center of the wall
Scott Riley at the first bolt on Artifact
[Hide Photo] Scott Riley at the first bolt on Artifact
Scott Riley on Artifact at upper roof dihedral
[Hide Photo] Scott Riley on Artifact at upper roof dihedral
Terry, from Austin TX, enjoying the second ascent, following on familiar limestone
[Hide Photo] Terry, from Austin TX, enjoying the second ascent, following on familiar limestone
Climber following on Artifact, climbing left out of upper dihedral
[Hide Photo] Climber following on Artifact, climbing left out of upper dihedral
Climber following on Artifact, at the third bolt on the slab
[Hide Photo] Climber following on Artifact, at the third bolt on the slab