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Routes in The Spoot

Breathe Easy (Sooth Spoot Route) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spoot Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 75 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Haisley, Tim Coats, Paul K Davidson
Page Views: 286 total, 22/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Nov 21, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

The start gets difficult right away with difficult off fingers offset crack climbing. It is good stone and not too long. Now you can scoot up the second pitch soft chimney. Or rap off at top of first pitch.

Location

It's not visible on the approach, it is located on north side of Spoot Tower, located just NW of Summit Block Rock (Dr Rubos...). Best approach is from directly below in a gully that ends up just right of Spoot Tower. Scramble onto the limestone band and walk to the route.

Protection

lot of thin pro to #2

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Thought this was a great mini-spire to do in combo with something on Summit Block Rock, as it's only a 5 minute jaunt between the two (stay high and come in on the limestone shelf).

First pitch is great, and I thought more in line with the original .11 than .11+.

I didn't think the second pitch rock quality was too bad at all and well worth it to summit. Surmount an awkward block to a ledge and up an .7/.8 chimney with no pro, tunnel through to the tower to finish on the south face directly below the summit. There wasn't much in the way of decent anchor gear to be found on top, but a good seated stance in the top of the chimney felt secure enough.

The rap anchors are located about 60' or so down the ridge; you rap back down about 20' or so left of the first pitch. These original top anchors could use some love. A new bolt would be a great improvement, and some chain is always nice. I will do this if I find myself back there anytime soon. Thanks guys for the nice anchors atop P1! Apr 19, 2017
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11+
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11+
The first pitch splitter crack is great! Kudos to the FA team, and thanks for agreeing to have an anchor installed half-way.

The first pitch is mostly fingers & off-fingers on good rock. It starts thin & stays that way for a while, mostly .5 camalots. Then you get to a #1 camalot & a decent rest, then a #2 gets you past a tiny bit of choss and up into the pod for a great rest, where I placed a #4 camalot with a long sling below the mini-roof. Climb left & up out the mini-roof with a finger piece and/or a nut, which takes you to the big ledge with a rap anchor. The second pitch is chossy and runout, but sort of fun to do once I guess. The first pitch is classic though!

The climb can be hard to find, as you can't see it until you are literally right below it. Great route, and a great find by the first ascensionists! Jan 24, 2017
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
The three star rating is for the difficult first half of the route. The rock deteriorates above the new anchor. Dec 4, 2016