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Routes in The Moon

Retrodeathblocking T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Agonal Rhythm S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cubicle Pukes and Cigars S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Zinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Force Hucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gumbies Will Find a Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of Choss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jet Fuel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
See You Space Cowboy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Wind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spring Fling S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zero Gravity S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 2016 Chris Koppl, Mary Wuest
Page Views: 145 total · 8/month
Shared By: Twinboas on Nov 21, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No Fixed Anchors Permitted Details

Description

This is the approach to numerous upper pitches, it follows a left trending corner/ramp to a steep face which has several short glorious cracks to the left (no gear required). 12 bolts if you continue up the black water streak to the Zero Gravity anchors, 9 bolts if you stop at the Solar Wind anchors (to the right).

Above the first bolt the climbing is easiest if you stay left of the bolt line. When you reach a bulge, clip a bolt and make a move to a big right hand pinch/sidepull which you can use to establish yourself in the short crack just above you. After surpassing the crack the difficulty eases up until you reach either anchor.

Location

This route follows the line of least resistance and begins in a slightly right facing corner surrounded by overhanging terrain.

Rappel the route with a single 70m rope or continue up one of the upper pitches where it is possible to either rappel or walk off (exposed third class).

Protection

9 or 12 bolts (depending on which way you finish), chain anchors.

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