Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: T. Bubb, K. Arhendt, Nov. 20, 2016
Page Views: 105 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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The crux of this route, in technical movement terms, is a few moves of 5.6 or 5.7 above the wide spot in the crack, getting through a bulge there, but in absolute terms, the crux is everywhere and is simply minding not to collapse the rock you are holding on to or standing on or pelting your belayer with pebbles and knobs.
The rock is as consistently poor as any I've ever had fun climbing, but the climbing simple enough that I never felt endangered, and my normally choss-averse partner confessed to finding the ascent fun.


Facing Helen's Dome on the tower, there is an apparent corner system that runs nearly to the summit. Climb this to the sub-summit on the left side. Retreat to the far side, over a saddle as per description on the 'rock' page.


A set of cams from 1" to 5". There are spots along the way were protection is available, best be had, and probably solid enough to hold a normal fall, though testing that seemed ill-advised. The crux pro for us was a #5 C4 Camalot. The upper dihedral section could take a second green Camalot if you are to take extras of anything.


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