All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > West Sedona > Dry Creek Road Area > Boynton Canyon > Mystery Spire
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tatum & Burcham|
|Page Views:||190 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is the original line on Mystery Spire, with a really unique crux.
Pitch 1: Climb delicately up ledgy cracks to a bulge where a fixed piton protects a tips seam (crux). Wrestle past a bit of offwidth and finally jam up a gorgeous hand crack to a shoulder about halfway up the spire. Meager options for belay. (5.10-)
Move the belay 25 feet left along the ledge to a two-bolt chain anchor. Note that this is the station used for the second rappel.
Pitch 2: The business. Scamper up through the limestone band, plug a couple cams (extend slings as long as you dare), and negotiate an extremely heinous roof traverse. (old school 5.10+)
Pitch 3: Walk over to the right side of the ledge and squeeze up an easy chimney to the base of the summit blocks. Make a few unprotected face moves across and up to a slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) tower. (5.8 R)
Rappels: (single 60m rope) From the slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) summit: rap to the chain anchors below P2 and then again to ground.