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Routes in C Bluff
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Birthday pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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C Legs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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C Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C Sick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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C Word T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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High C's, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Erik Brooks & Silas Miller - November 2016 |
| Page Views: | 720 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Silas Miller on Nov 20, 2016 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
From afar, this area has attractive looking rock on the upper portions. It turns out it is very smooth and slippery with tiny rounded sloping edges, and overlaps with hairpin cracks under them. The first pitch was alright, but the upper sections turned out to pretty tough and scary, so we trended left, ending up in the trees and not taking the proper direct line. A significant bolting effort could result in quite an impressive hard and thin route. C Sick is located on the right half of C Bluff. Approach by walking past C Word for five minutes, crossing directly in front of a large bear cave!
P1: 200ft 5.8 Climb up and left on easy slab for 50ft until you can head into the enjoyable left facing corner that leads to the top of the pillar. Unless you have 7” cams to belay on, face climb up a few feet and scratch around for pro, then make some sort of tenuous move onto a slippery bushy ledge where you can belay on a 0.1 C3 and small bush. Best pitch of the climb.
P2: 100ft 5.10+? We had high hopes for this rock, it’s very fine grained and has features that appeared to be similar to traditional granite. Head through a couple overlaps finding a couple small pieces of pro, trending left until you reach the safety of the trees. If you’re feeling brave, stay on the direct line. This rock would be an interesting hard slab route if it had a bunch of bolts.
P1: 200ft 5.8 Climb up and left on easy slab for 50ft until you can head into the enjoyable left facing corner that leads to the top of the pillar. Unless you have 7” cams to belay on, face climb up a few feet and scratch around for pro, then make some sort of tenuous move onto a slippery bushy ledge where you can belay on a 0.1 C3 and small bush. Best pitch of the climb.
P2: 100ft 5.10+? We had high hopes for this rock, it’s very fine grained and has features that appeared to be similar to traditional granite. Head through a couple overlaps finding a couple small pieces of pro, trending left until you reach the safety of the trees. If you’re feeling brave, stay on the direct line. This rock would be an interesting hard slab route if it had a bunch of bolts.
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