Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Area

Above My Pay Grade S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Alley Cat T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Around Town S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt It and They Will Come S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clip Art S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunk Dumb-Ass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fox Trap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hail of a Traverse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Juvenile S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nothing Dynamic About It S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
O'Shit Approved S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Off My Ass S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Old Plank Road S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Owl Eyes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plan B S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skunk Compas S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirel Eye T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunny Place For Shady People S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Walk The Plank S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Garden S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Whiskey Throttle S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Window of Opportunity S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marcus Floyd and Mathew Green
Page Views: 95 total · 5/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Nov 19, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Squirel Eye name about during Matt's ascent when a surprised, fuzzy tail, stopped and gazed at him for a second with large and exicted eyes, before continuing with its awsome speed climbing skills across the sheer cliff face.
While this line continues all the way to the top of the cliff, the second pitch is not for the faint hearted.
The first pitch is a well protected line of bolts leading past the right side of the large right hole. Continue through the balance moves to reach up and over the small roof. Use smaller holds to climb over the bulge to the 2 bolt anchors.
The second pitch requires a couple quick draws, cams and nuts for protection. The obvious crux is protected by a bolt. Two bolt anchor can be access from above to set up a top rope.

Location

First line of bolts, about 20 feet left of 'Juvenile.' The first pitch is a well protected line of bolts leading past the right side of the large right hole.

Protection

Quick draws and a standard rack.

Photos

Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.11a
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
  5.11a
Lower pitch feels closer to 5.11-. Interesting climbing with two distinct cruxes. The lower crux seems too thin for the .10d grade. Upper crux is a balancey roof pull on good holds. Easier on the fingers, but way more technical. Good route. Oct 5, 2017

More About Squirel Eye

Printer-Friendly