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Routes in Retirement Wall

Dementia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Depends S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Extra Fiber S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Free Bus Pass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fully Vested S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Years S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Life Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Metamuscle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Out to Pasture S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pension Plan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Senility S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverback S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Social Security S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stroke, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Toothless Bastard S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wheel Chair Access S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 128 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Nov 18, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Hopefully at the modest grade of 5.10c, you won't find yourself saying, "I've fallen and I can't get up." Face climb past two bolts with brown hangers to a nice ledge and the third clip. Pull awkward moves over the bulge and climb easier terrain past a couple more bolts to the dihedral. Stem up the dihedral passing a fantastic hueco before busting out right to the anchors.

This obscure older route formerly had just five bolts with a grungy, kinda scary ramp start going up left then back right on a ledge to the very high first bolt. I added two bolts for a direct start up the face making it a much more enticing and enjoyable line.
I've given the route a name here since I've been unable to track down the history of the route. It's listed in the D. Jackson "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book as "Unknown. No topo. No Information." If you know who did the FA and/or an original name, holler at me.

Location

About thirty feet right of Out to Pasture. You can't stay up high by the wall, though; There's a separate climber's trail up to the base of the route.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor with lowering biners.

Photos

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