Type: Sport, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 366 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nick Biederman on Nov 16, 2016
Admins: Courtney Curtner

You & This Route

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Mostly crimpy holds, but there's a nice large square brick shortly after the first clip and an odd I shaped brick right before the last move that are nice and juggy. The top cap of the wall has 2 great holds to finish on as you transition to a top out or the fence to set an anchor. Some of the lower holds are a bit polished, but after after the first few feet they're good and rough.


Located on the west wall shortly before woods wall. Walk east from the parking lot to where the grass field gives way to a less well grooomed field, and look about 10 feet up for the first bolt. It's slightly left of the fourth pillar, first fence section.


2 quickdraws, plus 2 slings and a biner for a top anchor. There's a bomber fence that's easy to anchor to at the top. Bring something to protect your slings as they'll rubbing on the edge.


Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
Hey Nick! Thanks for sharing.
Is this the same route? If you cant add a photo, let me know and I'll add one next time I visit. Nov 28, 2016
Nick Biederman
Nick Biederman  
Hey Grant,

I'm tempted to say the route you linked is a different one. As you walk towards woods wall, there's 2 sets of bolts, one right by the woods and this one a little closer to the parking lot. The route closer to the woods looks older as the bolts and hangers don't seem to be in great condition. Next time I'm out there (hopefully this afternoon) I'll be sure to get a picture. I'll add the other route as well once I get a chance to climb it. Nov 30, 2016
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
Great, thanks. Sounds good. We should get these bolted routes up on the project. I cant believe someone came, bolted them, then didn't even add them to the two major databases online. In one sense i respect the hell out of it, in the other sense, it doesn't make any sense haha. Dec 2, 2016
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
Grant, these routes were bolted before mountain project was even a thing... May 24, 2017
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
Dr.Rockso, the bolts look pretty recent, are they really that new? Either way, makes sense if they have been there a while, then. They just seemed fairly recent. Jun 5, 2017
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
Update from Nick Biederman: Sadly, this route has apparently been chopped. I wish the local who chops these would share why he chops them (and why he hasn't chopped the ancient anchors on the wall that are very unsafe). Apr 5, 2018
Sawyer W
Sawyer W   Van
I didn't chop the bolts, but I am glad someone did. Those bois were SKETCH.

A) Not only did the hangers look like no amount of bending would get them flush and
B) Taking a whip on a brick held in with ancient mortar? Nah, that's 100% gonna pull.

Just because it looks like a rock doesn't mean it can hold a bolt. Aug 8, 2018