Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: HP
Page Views: 686 total, 56/month
Shared By: JTLA Tolins on Nov 16, 2016
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Feeling like you don't fit in with all those weird slab climbers? The Outsider is your answer. After three easy bolts, clip a permadraw and pull into a huge juggy hueco. Follow the vertical rail up the left to it's top (There's a kneebar if you want it) and shoot out to a smaller hueco on the face. Enjoy a short hard crux.

Location

Across the trail from the main slab wall on the overhanging pocketed face

Protection

8 bolts
alex carey
  5.12b
alex carey  
  5.12b
Hard to imagine this will ever get climbed enough to be super clean. I know my buddy and I knocked off a few pebbles and many of the holds felt sandy, especially the pockets. A fun tick if you want something harder and you are at saddle. Jun 10, 2017
Maidy  
Not a "red herring BTW. Have at it if you want. "The Outsider" was a former very old TR route on what is probably the only OK-qulaity rock on the entire formation. As a TR it had difficult access and lots of rope drag. - evidently it's a lot better as a lead climb

It is truly our opinion the rest of this formation is crap. We bolted the shorter cobbled face to the left then pulled the bolts for safety reasons so no one would get injured.
We TR'd all over those faces and just weren't inspired.

The main huge slab has an access issue since there is no access to the base without removing the manzanita. The plant is protected and cutting is prohibited by the park service. Please don't start cutting trails through protected plants and pissing off land managers... again..

PS- the slackline idea is pretty cool though! :) Mar 14, 2017