PRINT: Rock Climb A Ketchum and Umbel Day, The New River Gorge Region

A Ketchum and Umbel Day

5.11, Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Donn Ketchum, Kevin Umbel 2007
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Basically a direct version of Rock Lobster - this line has an independent start, joins the shallow right facing weakness of Rock Lobster until the ledge, and follows the face directly below the Stolen Kisses anchors.

Instead of traversing right to the bolt and continuing up Rock Lobster proper, follow a series of iron oxide features and thin holds on the clean face just right of the mid-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses corner system.

This is a fun route, probably best toproped after leading Stolen Kisses. It has been done on lead, but would be a very bold R/X ordeal for sure. A great way to pass the time waiting for the hordes to clear off of Legacy.

Location

Starts just to the left of Rock Lobster, about 10 feet right of the small corner system (Adam Ant) next to Stolen Kisses.

Protection

The beginning section and shared section of Rock Lobster can be marginally protected, but there is mjnimal pro on the face above. A serious lead for certain.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BrianWS

5.11

There is a possibility that this route may actually be A Ketchum and Umbel Day, 10+R.

If I'm not mistaken, K&U Day climbs the face just to the right of the mid-to-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses crack system. I found the movement on this "unkown" route to be far more difficult than 5.10 -- definitely in the mid to hard 5.11 range. Also, unless I totally missed something, there was no gear from the ledge to just below the anchors, which would be a 40+ foot runout on extremely cruxy terrain - K&U has an R rating, but this looks like a definite X.

If someone who has climbed K&U Day can comment, it would be helpful to sort out the potential background of this "new" line. Nov 14, 2016

Kevin Umbel

The route you're describing is basically Ketchum and Umbel day. It starts right of Adam Ant and left of Rock Lobster. There is gear between the ledge at mid to half height but you've got to be creative and also be on the actual line. Sounds like you may have been top roping a bit off to the right. I agree with you on the grade. Prob is more like 11b/c and could warrant the R/X in seriousness. None the less, a good line done in typical Don Ketchum style. Miss climbing with you, buddy. Thanks for the fire, it's still burning. Feb 6, 2017

BrianWS

5.11

Thanks for the update! Route info has been changed accordingly - please let me know if there is anything you'd like to add.

Oh, and kudos on the ballsy lead! Feb 6, 2017