Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Seth Zaharias/ Dino Banco/ Ethan Peck.
Page Views: 411 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dino Banco on Nov 12, 2016 with updates from Matt Hagny
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Its hard just to get into this flaring chimney and clip the first bolt. Squeeze yourself in and pull the crux. Runout in places and more wide chimney keeps coming at you. Easier to go over the chockstone than under it! Crux is well protected. Gear anchor.

Location

Flaring chimney on the left side of top secret tower.

Protection

4 Bolts/ Mixed medium cams.

Photos

Matt Hagny
  5.10c
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c
A finger-size cam protects the move to the first bolt, if you're so inclined. Then, take a #4 for a bit past the 2d bolt. Runout but easier climbing to reach the 3d and 4th bolts (trickier climbing again). Then runout but easy to get to the giant chockstone--options here are to use a 0.75 on the RH side, or #3 on the left, or tunnel under the chockstone. I didn't bother building an anchor, as I was pretty well wedged in behind this chockstone. Descent is thru the nifty slot to the right.

Great fun! The bolts are in exactly the right spots. A bit of a head-scratcher as to how to negotiate the features near the 3d and 4th bolts -- which adds to the fun. Oct 14, 2018
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
  5.10c
Yannick Gingras   On the road, mostly Southwest
  5.10c
Nice mix of really wide and really tight chimney moves. There are long runs between some of the bolts, but it's easy to find natural protection in those spots. There is a huge boulder at the top and it's easy to build and anchor by wrapping the rope around it.

This is a fun one! Dec 14, 2018