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Routes in North Minaret

Cruisin' for a Muezzin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 R
Type: Trad, Aid, 222 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett & Roy Suggett
Page Views: 203 total, 16/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Nov 11, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The good news for this route is that you can 4th class up two pitches that the neighbor next door (Southern Minaret) makes you climb and no hammers needed! From the col, you can start an adventure with mostly good rock. Not until about 30 feet up the second pitch does the line sour with poor quality rock and potential for the belayer to be "Trumped" by the unintentional carpet bombing of potentially lethal sized blocks. R for the leader here but X for the belayer. After the danger zone, the climb again becomes a joy to be on. The exit is a blast and the summit portal through the cap stone is an anomaly worth seeing though not venturing into.

Location

Starting on the north side or the formation, take the easy 4th class line up to the obvious col. Then the line appears in the clear and beckoning crack that leads to the summit on the north east corner of the N. Minaret proper.

Protection

Passive: Many small to large nuts and a "full" set of tricams

Active: Full set of small cams, Aliens, BD .3-.4 X 2, .5-.75 X 4, 1s X 3, 2s X 3, 3s X 3, 4s X 4, and one # 5.

Anchor: Two bolts with a cordellett and a locker.

Ropes: Two 60m

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