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Routes in Primitive Buttress

Back to the Primitive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Boving Reflection T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Easter Island T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jumanji T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lollipop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost World, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Làjiāo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raven (MeiYouLe variation), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raven, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Saving Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seed to a Tree T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Through the Looking Glass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Truffula Tree T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Truffula Tree (the Lorax variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 22 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Less clean than Lollipop and without a dedicated anchor, this route will probably continue to fade into obscurity.

The left variation of this may be called Guanxi, but the guidebook was too clear, and neither route are popular or distinct enough to warrant two entries.

Either smear up the corner to the ledge to the left or climb the brief layback flake to a finger crack. If staying left, pull a brief bulge and move right onto the slab. If climbing the finger crack, pull a few strenuous moves to the same slab. From here, it's a dirty, mostly-unprotected scramble up-right and then back left to the anchor tree.

There is also a brief finger-crack off the ground to a leftward traverse that joins these two options. Probably harder.

Location

Right side of Primitive South, around the corner to the right of Lollipop slot

Protection

#.3-.75?

Photos

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