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Headbutt

V6, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Fire Tower
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a fun climb with good movement and high rock quality that is unfortunately marred by the proximity of a large wedged block that hangs over the right side of the climb.

Start sitting with the left hand on a good angled edge at around 4 feet and the right hand on a low sidepull. Pull off the ground and bump the right hand to a good hold on the arete. From here, make a long move to the lip above without hitting your head on the large block (crux). Finish off with a tricky mantel, doing your best to not dab on the block.

This problem is #62 in the underground guidebook.

Location

Located at the South Ridge boulders, which is a subset of The Fire Tower boulders. This climb is located maybe 60 yards down the hill from 'Mr. Big', in a little alcove of sorts, to the right of the large highball face that is right off the trail.

Protection

One big pad should do. Perhaps a spotter. Maybe a helmet as well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting holds and general line of travel for 'Head Butt'.
[Hide Photo] Starting holds and general line of travel for 'Head Butt'.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
[Hide Comment] This climb would be really good if not for the wedged block. The crux may be not hitting your head or dabbing. Bryce's book didn't give it a name, so I thought 'Headbutt' would be appropriate. Nov 10, 2016