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Routes in 4-Clyde

Block South Corner TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Block Southeast Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
O Sole Mio TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown D S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 64 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 9, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of fun moves, but the crux move is significantly harder (perhaps a bit reachy).

Up 2-ft-deep R-facing corner to 2-ft-deep roof. Right under roof five feet and up into 1-ft-deep R-facing corner. Up this (crux) to its top.

name: On the giant pillar of the Grand Capucin overlooking the glacier at Cirque Maudit in the Mont Blanc massif ... the upper pitches of the route O Sole Mio are often used as an alternate (interesting but less difficult) finish for the ultra-classic alpine rock route Voie des Suisses.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

On left side of main lower wall, 15 ft right from big R-facing corner on the right side of large block with short steep trail section alongside, which has a 25-ft-high rectangular face on its downhill (southeast) side.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

Top-Roping: Straightforward to reach obvious tree anchor on diagonal ramp at top of wall, by hiking up to ramp way around its left side, then scramble up that to big tree at outside edge of ramp.

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